Whitby - A Complete Visitor's Guide

Overview

Whitby is a captivating seaside town perched on the cliffs of the North Yorkshire coast, where the River Esk meets the North Sea. Divided into two halves by the harbour, with the old town climbing steeply up the East Cliff beneath the dramatic ruins of Whitby Abbey, the town has a timeless quality that has drawn artists, writers, and visitors for centuries. Bram Stoker found his inspiration for Dracula here, Captain James Cook served his seafaring apprenticeship in the town, and generations of families have returned year after year for its unique combination of history, character, and coastal beauty.

The old town is a maze of narrow cobbled streets, traditional shops, and characterful pubs clustered around the harbourside. The famous 199 steps lead up to the parish church of St Mary's and the haunting ruins of Whitby Abbey on the clifftop above. Across the swing bridge, the West Cliff offers Victorian elegance with its crescent of hotels overlooking the beach and the imposing whalebone arch that has become one of Whitby's most photographed landmarks.

Whitby remains a working fishing port, and the smell of fresh fish and chips is never far away. The town is rightly famous for its seafood, and visitors will find no shortage of excellent fish restaurants and traditional chippies along the harbourside.

What to See and Do

Whitby offers an extraordinary variety of experiences for a town of its size. The abbey ruins are the obvious starting point, offering breathtaking views along the coast and a visitor centre that tells the story of the monastery from its seventh-century foundation to its dissolution by Henry VIII. The 199 steps that lead to the abbey are an experience in themselves, lined with traditional cottages and offering ever-improving views of the harbour below.

The Captain Cook Memorial Museum, housed in the very building where the young Cook lodged during his apprenticeship, provides a fascinating insight into one of history's greatest explorers. The Whitby Museum, tucked away in Pannett Park, is a wonderfully old-fashioned collection that includes fossils, ship models, and Whitby jet jewellery.

• Climb the 199 steps to Whitby Abbey
• Visit the Captain Cook Memorial Museum
• Try traditional fish and chips from one of the harbourside chippies
• Browse the jet jewellery shops in the old town
• Walk along the harbour piers to the lighthouse
• Explore the cobbled streets and yards of the old town
• Take a boat trip along the coast for views of the abbey from the sea

History

Whitby's recorded history begins with the founding of a monastery by St Hild in 657 AD, which became one of the most important religious houses in Anglo-Saxon England. The Synod of Whitby in 664 AD was a pivotal moment in English church history. The monastery was destroyed by Viking raids in the ninth century, and the ruins visible today are those of a later Benedictine abbey founded after the Norman Conquest.

The town's seafaring tradition runs deep. Whitby-built ships carried Captain Cook on his voyages of discovery, and the port was a major centre for whaling in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The jet industry, producing beautiful black jewellery from fossilised wood found in the local cliffs, became a major employer after Queen Victoria popularised jet mourning jewellery. Bram Stoker visited in 1890 and was so inspired by the atmosphere that he set key scenes of Dracula in the town, a connection that is celebrated with the twice-yearly Whitby Goth Weekend.

Getting There

Whitby is served by the Esk Valley railway line from Middlesbrough, one of the most scenic rail journeys in England. By road, the town is reached via the A171 from Scarborough or Middlesbrough, or the A169 from Pickering. The North Yorkshire Moors Railway provides a heritage steam train service from Pickering. Parking in the town centre is limited, particularly in summer — the park and ride service from the top of the town is recommended during peak periods.

Where to Stay

Whitby offers a wide range of accommodation, from harbourside bed and breakfasts to holiday cottages in the old town. The West Cliff area has several elegant Victorian hotels and guesthouses with sea views. For a more atmospheric stay, look for one of the many cottages available for rent in the narrow streets of the old town, where you can fall asleep to the sound of the sea and the harbour.

Local Tips

• Visit early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the summer crowds on the 199 steps
• The best fish and chips are found away from the main harbour — locals have their own favourites in the side streets
• Whitby jet is the authentic local gemstone — beware of imitations sold as jet that are actually glass or plastic
• The coast path in both directions from Whitby offers superb walking with dramatic views
• Check the tide times before walking on the beach, as the sands can be cut off at high water